TLC Pet Sitting Edmonton

All topics are gathered from various sources, books, sites (Washington State University) and opinions. Information here is not a substitute to Veterinarian care or advice. Contact your Veterinarian for all medical advice concerning your pets.

Jan was dental care. Brushing your pets teeth is just as important as brushing your own. Pets also suffer from periodontal disease from poor dental care as well as developing many other problems from poor dental hygiene. Please take a look at the following video which shows you why brushing your pets teeth is very important and the steps on how to accomplish this.

Video on brushing your pets teeth.

February we discussed Toxic Houseplants. There are many household plants that our pets should not be in contact with for their safety. The following is provided from the poisonous plant book by ASPCA poison control center.

Plants and Clinical Signs                

 1. Name:Asparagus Fern (Asparagus sprengeri):

Clinical Signs: Allergic dermatitis with repeated dermal exposure. Berry ingestion could result in gastric upset (vomiting, abdominal pain, or diarrhea.

2. Names: Cutleaf Philodendron; Chinese evergreen, Cordatum; Devil's Ivy/Golden Pothos; Dumb Cane; Green Gold Nephthysis; Marble Queen;Peace Lily; Taro Vine.

Clinical Signs: Oral irritation, intense burning and irritation on the mouth, lips, tongue, excessive drooling, vomiting, difficulty in swallowing.

3. Names: Cornstalk Plant (aka Corn Plant); Red Margined Dracaena (aka Straight-Margined Dracaena; Striped Dracaena; Warneckei Dracaena

Clinical Signs: Cats: Dilated pupils, breathing difficulty, abdominal pain, increased heartrate and drooling. In both cats and dogs: vomiting, depression, inappetence, drooling, incoordination and weakness.

4. Name: Cyclamen

Clinical Signs: Vomiting, gastrointestinal inflammation, and death.

5. Name: Hydrangea

Clinical Signs: Vomiting, depression, anorexia, diarrhea, increase in heartrate, increase in body temperature.

6. Name: Kalanchoe

Clinical Signs: May cause vomiting, diarrhea, bufodienalides are cardiotoxic.

7. Name: Poinsettia

Clinical Signs: Generally over-rated in toxicity. Can cause irritation to mouth and stomach. May see drooling, vomiting or nausea. Signs are typically mild and self-limiting.

March

Why Deworm?

The Veterinary profession has a responsibility to help prevent human infection with zoonotic (a disease that can be transmitted from animals to humans) parasites. Routine deworming serves to protect pets and their owners.

The following is provided by Bayer Health Care, Animal Health, is intended to promote greater understanding about issue associated with parasites in dogs and cats.

On Schedule with routine deworming (Celine Picard, B.Sc., D.V.M.)

The veterinary profession has experienced significant advances regarding recommendations for parasite treatment and control over the last two decades. Twenty years ago, routine deworming of healthy pets was not deemed necessary as it was thought that intestinal nematodes rarely caused any clinical signs and were of no significance. It is now known that these intestinal helminths can also infect human and produce mild to life threating diseases.

 The goal of routine deworming schedule is to provide targeted protection for pets and people as determined by the life cycle of specific parasites. In cats and dogs (kittens and puppies) routine deworming concentrates on treating and controlling roundworms and hookworms. These are the most common intestinal nematodes, regardless of where you live in Canada, and are a significant cause of zoonotic disease.

                                                                                                       Toxocara adult worms

Stop the new crop

The overall goal of strategic deworming with a broad-spectrum antihelmintic is to ensure patent infections don't develop. This prevents contamination of the environment, the main source of infestation for humans and for adult pets. Deworming guidelines set by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC:www.cdc.gov) and the Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC:www.capcvet.org) are based on prepatent periods of hookworms and roundworms. Prepatent periods are the time intervals between when a pet eats the infective stage of a parasite (egg or larvae) and when the ingested parasite becomes an adult worm that is producing eggs.

There are two general schedules for deworming. One for puppies and kittens and onefor adult dogs and cats. The main difference is in the timing of the schedule because worm life cycles are generally shorter in younger animals.

Puppies and kittens

Young pets are particularly susceptible to intestinal nematodes. Puppies are infected in utero by Toxocara canis, and kittens and puppies are infected with hookworms and roundworms via nursing and through environmental exposure. The parasite loads can rapidly escalate to very heavy burdens causing severe clinical signs and the infected pet becomes a very significant source of environmental contamination. Since the life cycles ofnematodes are shorter in pets under six months of age, they must be treated more often than adults to prevent patent infections.

                                                                                                  Microscope view of hookworm eggs

Adult dogs and cats

Healthy adult dogs and cats generally carry a higher load of intestinal nematodes, and show no visible signs of infection or illness. The can still contaminate the environment with zoonotic endoparasites, thus adult dogs and cats need regular deworming with broad-spectrum antihelmintic . Specific treatment protocols largely depend on overall pet health, immune status, lifestyle (hunting dogs, outdoor cats etc.), local climate, other pets in the household and other factors. Deworming pets in Canada is generally done during the warmer months since most parasites are not accessible under snow cover, even though many parasite eggs are able to over winter.

For specific deworming protocols refer to CDC and CAPC guidelines, visit www.animalhealth.bayer.ca or contact your local Bayer Health Care, Animal Health represenative. Contact your Veterinarian.

At a glance

•  Many species of hookworms and roundworms are zoonotic.
• Hookworms can infect people and pets via skin penetration.
• A contaminated environment is a major source of parasitic infection for both pets and humans.
• Strategic deworming is the best was to minimize the risk of parasitic disease is pets and the risk of zoonotic infection in humans.

April

The following is provided by Bayer Health Care, Animal Health, is intended to promote greater understanding about issue associated with parasites in dogs and cats.

Tick populations appear on the increase across Canada

Tick populations are on the rise. There's a shared perception among many veterinary teams and pet owners that ticks are a growing concern across Canada. Once present in only small, isolated pockets across the country, ticks are forming well established, and wide reaching populations in many provinces. Beyond the obvious emotional aversion many people have to them, ticks also transmit canine vector borne diseases, exposing dogs and sometimes people to additional risks and illnesses.

The waiting game

Ticks all share a similar form; a broad, flat body supported by eight small legs, and of course the mouthparts responsible for feeding. This limits their travel range significantly, forcing them to wait for the pets or people to come within range for attachment and feeding to begin. On their own, ticks have a travel range of approximately one metre. Once attached to a host however, the range of a tick increases substantially. Movement via pets and people, as well as environmental changes, have both been suggested reasons for the flourish of tick populations in Canada.

In Canada there are four major tick species affecting dogs. Deer ticks (Ixodes scapularis/pacificus), American dog tick and rocky Mountain wood tick (Dermacentor variabilis/andersoni), Brown dog tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus) and Lone star tick (Amblyomma americanum).

Link to Lyme disease

Aside from the discomfort and stress they inflict on dogs, ticks are a common vector for secondary diseases in pets. Lyme disease is perhaps the most widespread and well known disease transmitted via ticks, and is known as a Canine Vector Borne Disease (CVBD). The bacteria responsible for Lyme disease, Borellia burgdorferi, is passed through the mouthparts of the tick and into the host shortly after feeding begins. Lyme disease is treatable and doesn't pose a zoonotic risk, however people can contract the disease directly from an infected tick bite. Prevention of CVBD should be of significant interest in areas where ticks are known to inhabit, and products or strategies that drastically reduce or eliminate attachment and feeding of ticks are superior choices.

CVBD

Most canine vector borne diseases are transmitted by ticks. Acting as the carrier or vector, ticks transmit disease from one host to another. Many vector borne diseases, such as Lyme disease, pose a risk to both people and pets.

•  Lyme disease (canine lyme borreliosis) is the most well known CVBD, with Ixodes scapularis as the vector in Eastern Canada and Ixodes pacificus in Western Canada.
• Rocky Mountain spotted fever is the most frequently reported fatal human tick-transmitted disease in North America, with Dermacentor variabilis as the primary vector in Eastern Canada and Dermacentor andersoni in Western Canada.

Canine vector borne disease can be a serious condition, but one that can be prevented. Use of rapid actingproducts that prevent tick attachment and feeding will help both pets and owners safely enjoy the great outdoors!

May

Topic is Toxoplasmosis

Toxoplasma gondii is found throughout North America and can infect almost any warm-blooded animal or bird, and humans. Infection with T. gondii, a condition called toxoplasmosis, can be very serious in humans. T. gondii can be passed from a pregnant woman to her fetus and cause abortions and congenital defects. In children and adults, it can cause other signs, and is sometimes fatal. It can cause severe disease in persons with poor immune systems such as those undergoing chemotherapy or infected with human immunodeficiency virus (the virus that causes AIDS). The cases of toxoplasmosis in the United States had been declining to 350 cases annually in the early 1990's. With the AIDS epidemic, the number of cases has increased. Surveys in the United States suggest 30% of cats and 25-50% of people have been infected (most clear the infection with no or few symptoms). How is T. gondii transmitted? Cats are the only primary hosts of T. gondii; they are the only mammals in which Toxoplasma is passed through the feces. In the cat, the reproductive form of T. gondii lives in the intestine and the oocysts (egg-like immature forms) exit the body in the feces. The oocysts must be in the environment 1-5 days before they are infective. This is important to remember when we discuss preventing infection. Cats only pass T. gondii in their feces for a few weeks after becoming infected. The oocysts can survive several years in the environment and are resistant to most disinfectants. The oocysts are ingested by intermediate hosts such as rodents and birds, or other animals such as dogs and humans, and migrate to the muscle and brain. When a cat eats an infected intermediate prey (or part of a larger animal, e.g., a pig), the parasite is released in the cat's intestine and the life cycle can be repeated. In any warm-blooded host, T. gondii can also be transmitted in utero (across the placenta) and through the milk. In summary, the main sources of infection for a cat are uncooked meat (usually pork), infected prey, or as kittens in utero or through the milk. Humans, dogs, and other mammals usually become infected through meat, raw milk from infected goats, and accidental ingestion of cat's fecal material from hands or on food. Does T. gondii cause disease in pets? T. gondii can cause disease in cats and dogs; it is more frequently recognized in cats. The signs of toxoplasmosis in pets are nonspecific: fever, loss of appetite, depression. Further signs may occur depending on whether the infection is acute or chronic, and where T. gondii is found in the body. In the eye, it can cause inflammation; in the lungs, pneumonia; in the heart, arrhythmias; in the digestive tract, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and jaundice; in the nervous system, seizures, paralysis and loss of nerve function; in muscle, a stiff gait and loss of muscle. Kittens may be born stillborn or ill. In animals, like people, disease is more common in those with suppressed immune systems. Cats with toxoplasmosis should be checked for infections with such viruses as feline leukemia virus (FeLV), feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), and feline infectious peritonitis (FIP). In dogs, distemper may cause immunodeficiency and allow T. gondii to take hold. Toxoplasmosis can be a significant cause of abortion in sheep. How is toxoplasmosis diagnosed in pet animals? Measurement of antibodies to T. gondii in the blood is the best method to diagnose toxoplasmosis. Sometimes the oocysts can be found in the feces but they look so similar to some other parasites that this is not a reliable method of diagnosis. Also, cats shed the oocysts for only a short period of time (about 2-3 weeks) and often are not shedding the oocysts when they are showing signs of disease. How are infected pets treated? An antibiotic called clindamycin is the treatment of choice for toxoplasmosis. Other drugs that have been used include pyrimethamine and trimethoprim/sulfadiazine (Tribrissen). About 60% of pets that have toxoplasmosis can recover with treatment. Recovery is less likely in animals that are young or have severe suppression of their immune systems. How can I prevent my pet from becoming infected? Animals should not be fed raw meat or bones and should not be allowed to scavenge through the garbage. Since T. gondii can be found in unpasteurized goat's milk, pets should not be allowed to drink it. Cats that can roam free outside can become infected through hunting prey such as mice and birds, so it is best to keep cats indoors. Feces should be removed from the litter box daily and disposed of properly (incinerate or flush). Clean the litter boxes regularly with boiling or scalding water. Dogs should not be allowed access to litter boxes. What are the signs and symptoms of toxoplasmosis in humans? Humans can become infected either in utero, or by accidental ingestion of the oocysts. If T. gondii passes through the uterus of an infected pregnant woman to her fetus early in the pregnancy, spontaneous abortion is common. If the infection occurs later in pregnancy (10-24 weeks of gestation) the infant may have serious or fatal congenital defects including hydrocephalus, blindness, and mental retardation. Most infected pregnant women do not have symptoms. Approximately 60% of infected pregnant women will pass the infection to their fetus. People infected through ingestion of oocysts may be listless and have fever, enlarged lymph nodes and less commonly, inflammation of the heart. Diagnosis is generally made through serologic (blood) testing. I have heard all kinds of stories about how people can get toxoplasmosis. What is the truth? People are much more likely to become infected through eating raw meat than from handling cat feces. People also become infected by eating unwashed fruits and vegetables. Do not just focus on cats. It is unlikely you will become infected by petting an infected cat. The oocysts do not tend to stick to the fur like roundworm eggs might. The cat, while grooming, would generally remove any oocysts on the fur, before they become infective. It is unlikely that you can become infected through cat bites or scratches. What are my health risks if my cat tests positive for toxoplasmosis? As odd as it may seem, a healthy cat that tests positive is probably safer than a cat that tests negative. Let us explain that. Cats that test positive have been exposed to toxoplasmosis. They have developed strong immunity to T. gondii, which means they are very unlikely to become infected again and pass oocysts if they are re-exposed to T. gondii within a year of their first infection. Over half of the cats that have become infected have immunity for up to 6 years. Negative cats, however, have no immunity or protection against becoming infected with T. gondii. If they become infected, they will pass oocysts that can infect humans and other animals. What should pregnant women know about toxoplasmosis? Pregnant women should remember that in the United States, exposures to T. gondii through food are much more common than exposures from cat feces, however, both do occur. Pregnant women, and those planning to conceive, should check with their physicians to determine if they should be tested for exposure to T. gondii. Do's and Don'ts for the prevention of toxoplasmosis Do not eat raw or undercooked meat. Meat should be cooked to a temperature of at least 160°F for 20 minutes. Do not drink unpasteurized milk. Do not eat unwashed fruits and vegetables. Wash hands and food preparation surfaces with warm soapy water after handling raw meat. Wear gloves when gardening. Wash hands after gardening. Wash hands before eating (especially children). Keep children's sandboxes and playpens covered. Do not drink water from the environment unless it is boiled. Do not feed raw meat or undercooked meat to cats. Also do not give them unpasteurized milk. Do not allow cats to hunt or roam. Do not allow cats to use a garden or children’s play area as their litter box. Remove feces from the litter box daily and clean with boiling or scalding water. Control rodent populations and other potential intermediate hosts. Pregnant women, and persons with suppressed immune systems, should not clean the litter box.

JUNE

Diabetes mellitus   This information is not meant to be a substitute for veterinary care. Always follow the instructions provided by your veterinarian. This information was obtained from an article from Washington State University. Diabetes mellitus occurs when the pancreas doesn't  produce enough insulin. Insulin is required for the body to efficiently use sugars, fats and proteins.  Diabetes most commonly occurs in middle age to older dogs and cats, but occasionally occurs in young animals. When diabetes occurs in young animals, it is often genetic and may occur in related animals. Diabetes mellitus occurs more commonly in female dogs and in male cats.  Certain conditions predispose a dog or cat to developing diabetes. Animals that are overweight or those with inflammation of the pancreas are predisposed to developing diabetes. Some drugs can interfere with insulin, leading to diabetes. Glucocorticoids, which are cortisone-type drugs, and hormones used for heat control are drugs that are most likely to cause diabetes.  These are commonly used drugs and only a small percentage of animals receiving these drugs develop diabetes after long term use. The body needs insulin to use sugar, fat and protein from the diet for energy. Without insulin, sugar accumulates in the blood and spills into the urine.  Sugar in the urine causes the pet to pass large amounts of urine and to drink lots of water. Levels of  sugar in the brain control appetite. Without insulin, the brain becomes sugar deprived and the animal is constantly hungry, yet they may lose weight due to improper use of nutrients from the diet. Untreated diabetic pets are more likely to develop infections and commonly get bladder, kidney, or skin infections. Diabetic dogs, and rarely cats, can develop cataracts in the eyes. Cataracts are caused by the accumulation of water in the lens and can lead to blindness. Fat accumulates in the liver of animals with diabetes. Less common signs of diabetes are weakness or abnormal gait due to nerve or muscle dysfunction.  There are two major forms of diabetes in the dog and cat: 1) uncomplicated diabetes and 2) diabetes with ketoacidosis. Pets with uncomplicated diabetes may have the signs just described but are not extremely ill.  Diabetic pets with ketoacidosis are very ill and may be vomiting and depressed. The diagnosis of diabetes is made by finding a large increase in blood sugar and a large amount of sugar in the urine. Animals, especially cats, stressed by having a blood sample drawn, can have a temporary increase in blood sugar, but there is no sugar in the urine.  A blood screen of other organs is obtained to look for changes in the liver, kidney and pancreas. A urine sample may be cultured to look for infection of the kidneys or bladder. Diabetic patients with ketoacidosis may have an elevation of waste products that are normally removed by the kidneys. The treatment is different for patients with uncomplicated diabetes and those with ketoacidosis.  Ketoacidotic diabetics are treated with intravenous fluids and rapid acting insulin.  This treatment is continued until the pet is no longer vomiting and is eating, then the treatment is the same as for uncomplicated diabetes. the inset picture shows the top of the insulin bottle Diabetes is managed long term by the injection of  insulin by the owner once or twice a day. Some diabetic cats can be treated with oral medications instead of insulin injections, but the oral medications are rarely effective in the dog. There are three general types of insulin used in dogs and cats: short- acting insulin (regular or crystalline) is used in sick diabetic animals until they are eating again  NPH and Lente are intermediate- acting insulins  Ultralente and PZI are long- acting insulins   Insulin comes from different sources including beef or pork pancreas and a human genetically engineered form called Humulin®.  The availability of animal-source insulins continues to decline. In general, cats and small dogs need insulin injections more frequently, usually twice daily, compared to large breed dogs that may only require one dose of insulin daily. The action of insulin varies in each individual and some large dogs will need 2 insulin shots daily.  The insulin needs of the individual animal are determined by collecting small amounts of blood for glucose (sugar) levels every 1-2 hours for 12-24 hours. This is called an insulin-glucose-response curve. When insulin treatment is first begun,  it is often  necessary to perform several insulin-glucose-response curves to determine: which insulin type to use how much insulin to give how often to give insulin when is the best time to feed the animal The animal's insulin needs may change over time requiring a change in insulin type or frequency of injection. Insulin- glucose- response curves are usually performed several days after a change in insulin is made.   Before you give insulin injections to your pet, your veterinarian will show you how to: handle insulin use a syringe draw insulin from the bottle in the correct amount give your pet the insulin shot Insulin is fragile and will become less effective or even inactive, if it gets too hot or cold, or is shaken vigorously. Pay attention to the expiration date on the bottle. Discard insulin that is outdated. You may be able to practice using water and giving the "shot" to an object such as a piece of fruit until you are comfortable using needles, syringes and drawing accurate amounts of fluid into a syringe.  Not all syringes used to inject insulin are alike. When you buy additional supplies, make sure that you buy the right kind of syringes. Insulin needles are very thin to reduce discomfort during injection.   Insulin syringes can fill to hold: 30 units 50 units 100 units The syringe is packaged in sterile paper or plastic wrapping or in a plastic case. The needle is covered with a plastic cap to keep it sterile. Use a new syringe-needle combination for each injection.  Insulin syringes have the needle attached. The needle is covered with a plastic cap to prevent the needle from puncturing the wrapping and to keep the needle from bending or breaking.  Remove the syringe and needle from the outer wrapping. Do not remove the needle cap until you are ready to draw insulin into the syringe.      The plunger fits inside the hollow barrel of the syringe and is pulled part way out of the barrel to draw insulin into the syringe. The plunger is pushed into the barrel of the syringe to push insulin through the needle. The finger grip makes it easier to hold the syringe.  100 unit syringes are numbered by 10's; 10, 20, 30, etc.  The smallest lines between the numbers on a 100 unit syringe, measure 2 units of insulin.  30 unit syringes are numbered by 5's; 5, 10 , 15, etc.  The smallest lines between the numbers on a 30 unit syringe, measure 1 unit of insulin.  The position of the TOP of the black rubber stopper on the plunger is used to measure the volume of insulin in the syringe. The TOP of the black rubber stopper is the part closest to the needle. Before each injection, The insulin bottle should not be shaken but rather gently rolled between your hands to mix the insulin in the bottle. Remove the plastic cap from the needle.  Hold the syringe between the thumb and index finger. Pull back on the plunger to the desired dose level drawing some air into the syringe. You can either pull back the plunger using the middle finger of the hand holding the syringe or... Hold the syringe in your left hand between the thumb and index finger and use the thumb and index finger of the other hand to pull the plunger or... Place your index finger against the finger grip and pull the plunger with your thumb and middle fingers. Hold the insulin bottle upside down in your left hand if you are right handed (opposite for left-handed individuals).  Place the needle in the center of the rubber stopper. If the needle is not centered you may be trying to force the needle through the metal ring that is holding the rubber stopper in place and will break the needle. Use your thumb to push the plunger and inject the air into the bottle.  The air is placed in the bottle so a vacuum does not form in the bottle which makes it more difficult to draw insulin from the bottle.   Insert the entire length of the needle into the insulin bottle as long as the tip of the needle is in the fluid in the bottle. Insulin needles are very thin and easily bent. You are less likely to bend the needle while drawing insulin into the syringe, if the needle is inserted all the way into the bottle.  If there is only a small amount of insulin left in the bottle, you may only be able to insert the needle into the bottle part way or else you will pass through the fluid and into the air in the bottle. Draw back on the plunger to the correct dose using your middle finger to pull back the plunger. If it is difficult for you to pull the plunger with your middle finger, you can use the thumb and index finger to pull the plunger. So that you do not pull the needle out of the bottle, curl the three fingers of your right hand that are not holding the bottle around the syringe trapping it against your palm. Then pull the plunger with the thumb and index finger. Your fingers may be covering the numbers on the syringe so draw more than you need, then push the extra back into the bottle, until the correct amount remains in the syringe. ...or place your index finger against the finger grip to keep the needle from pulling out of the bottle and pull the plunger with your thumb and middle fingers. If there is an air bubble in the syringe, draw a little more insulin than the correct dose.  Remove the syringe and needle from the insulin bottle. Holding the syringe with the needle pointed up, gently "flick" the syringe to get the air to rise to the top. Press the plunger with your thumb to push the air out of the syringe, until the correct amount of insulin remains in the syringe. This 30 unit syringe has been filled to 14.5 units.  There is 1 unit between each back line on this smaller syringe. Smaller syringes allow for more accurate measurements of small amounts of insulin. The top of the black rubber stopper is half way between 14 and 15 units. This 100 unit syringe has been filled to 48 units. There are 2 units between each black line on the barrel. The volume is measured at the TOP of the black rubber stopper on the plunger. Pinch up a fold of skin anywhere along the neck or back using your left hand if you are right-handed. Use your right hand to place the needle into the skin fold along the long axis of the fold.  Usually the skin is not cleansed before inserting the needle. If the cat has a normal immune system, the few bacteria that are pushed under the skin with the needle will be killed by the cat's immune system. You can use alcohol on a cotton ball to make the hair lay flat so it is easier to see where the hair ends and the skin starts. Alcohol takes about 30 minutes before bacteria are killed, so just swiping the hair with alcohol is not effective in killing bacteria. If you place the needle in the opposite direction, across the skin fold, it is more likely that the needle will go through one fold of skin and out the other fold of skin, or may poke into your finger. Pull back the plunger. If you get air, you placed the needle through both folds of skin. Remove the needle and try again. If you get blood, the tip of the needle is in a blood vessel. Remove the needle and try again. If you get neither air nor blood, the needle is placed correctly and you can push the plunger to inject the insulin. Give the insulin shots in different locations each time. Syringes and needles used to give insulin should not be discarded in the trash but should be placed in a puncture-proof container and taken to your veterinarian for disposal.  Insulin injections are not as perfect as the insulin produced by the pancreas. Blood sugar levels will not always be normal in diabetic pets. The goal of treatment is to reduce the  signs of diabetes. When diabetes is well controlled with insulin, the pet should drink, eat and urinate normal amounts.  They should have a good appetite, without becoming fat and should have normal activity.  Insulin needs are closely related to the type of  food eaten by the pet. Your veterinarian will recommend a specific diet and feeding regimen that will enhance the effectiveness of insulin. If your pet is overweight, s(he) will be placed on a weight-reducing diet. As the pet loses weight, less insulin will be needed. Only feed the recommended diet..NO table scraps or treats that are not part of the recommended diet. Heavy exercise will reduce the amount of insulin needed. It is important  to talk to your veterinarian before making changes in diet or exercise. There is always some risk that a diabetic patient will develop low blood sugar. Signs of low blood sugar include weakness, staggering, seizures, or just being more quiet than usual. You should keep corn syrup on hand to rub on the animals gums if they have signs suggestive of low blood sugar.  Don't pour large amounts of corn syrup in the mouth of an animal that is not fully conscious as the syrup may be inhaled into the lungs. Because insulin needs vary with the activity and lifestyle of your pet, you may want to keep a written daily log of: the dose of insulin location in which the insulin is injected any changes in the pet’s activity or appetite Your veterinarian may ask you to check your pet's urine for sugar using a test strip. If your pet is well regulated on insulin, the sugar readings in most urine samples will be negative or trace. The strips may have color pads only for glucose or for glucose and ketones.  JULY (NOT AVAILABLE) AUG Adopting a dog or cat vs puppy or kitten Puppies and kittens are beautiful, fluffy, and incredibly cute as they tear about your house and discover all that is new in their world. However, they also are not born knowing appropriate “pet” behavior and need training, some lots of training. House breaking can be a lengthy process and requires taking the animal outside many times throughout the day and watching them to praise good washroom behavior. If a new owner doesn’t have the time to devote to proper training they could be setting themselves up for frustration; worse yet, they maybe sentencing their new furry friend to a life of constantly switching from home to home or worse yet euthanized. Puppies and kittens have a rigorous feeding schedule throughout the day to keep up with their growing requirements. Most animals go to the bathroom within 1 hour of eating. After eating most puppies have to be taken outside for house training lesson. Dogs need exercise and should be walked everyday if not twice. Puppies and kittens should all be vaccinated. Puppies and kittens do not only require 1 set of vaccinations they will require a few visits to the vet clinic within their first year of life. This is something that also needs to be considered. Do you have the time to go to the clinic? Are you financially able to care for a pet? Many people adopt or receive a pet without thinking about all that is involved in carrying for their new addition. Other things that should be considered is the difference between bringing a puppy/kitten as opposed to an adult pet into a home. There are people who would benefit from having an adult pet who is already potty trained and maybe even additional training. There are so many homeless adult pets around that are just waiting for a loving family to join. Many local shelters have assessed the temperament of these pets and help with finding a suitable pet for your family. People that are extremely busy with their work, family functions, life in general may not have the time it takes to train a puppy or kitten but have the time to provide loving care to an adult pet that is already trained. Pets (all kinds) do require money to be spent. You have food, toys, litter, grooming supplies, veterinary care/vaccinations, some pets need to get a haircut. If you work long hours you may want to place your dog in daycare, when you go away and if there is no family or friends to help you out and you cannot take your pet to your destination you will have to board them the list is endless really. There are so many factors to consider before getting a furry friend. Pets are a wonderful addition to many families and bring so much happiness and joy to peoples lives. They deserve to be loved and cared for for their entire life which in some cases can be 20 plus years. So please don't jump into the situation at the spur of the moment and take the time to assess your life and what type of pet, breed, puppy/kitten vs adult would best suit you, your family and your lifestyle. There are many pets waiting for the perfect home and sadly many of them never get that perfect home because people jump into the idea of getting a pet without considering all that is involved prior. For those that are interested in finding an adult pet there are many shelters with pets to adopt or foster here in Edmonton. Go take a look you may find your perfect addition and in doing so you will be saving a life! Thank you, Tamara TLC Pet Sitting Edmonton

 Sept (not available)

 October:

Choosing a professional pet sitter

Having to leave your precious pets whether it is for a day, week or months is very hard. Finding the perfect place for you loved ones to stay while you are away can be stressful. I have dedicated this topic to aid you in finding the perfect pet sitter for your best friend!!

How to choose and find the perfect pet sitter?

A pet sitter does more than provide your pets with food and water while you're away from home. A good pet sitter also spends quality time with your pet, gives him or her exercise, much needed attention, and knows how to tell if your pet needs veterinary attention. Some pet sitters (this includes TLC) has the primary care giver who is educated and trained in the health of pets which is beneficial should any pet become ill while you are away. This is very helpful as experienced/educated caregivers are able to pick up on early signs of an ill pet.

Pet Sitter/boarding kennel?

When you must be away from home, say for travel or an emergency, and don't like the idea of leaving your pet caged up in a boarding kennel, there are a couple of options. There are those pets that do not adjust well to change in their environment and would benefit from a pet sitter who comes to the clients home for visits or for overnight stays and then there are pet sitters who will take clients pet into their own home and care for your pets. Leaving your pet in the pet sitters home is great for those pets that require 24 hour care, love to socialize and for those clients that are not comfortable with strangers in their home and for those clients that would love for their pets to be treated as part of a family with free run of a home just as they would at their own place.

A pet sitter offers both you and your pet many benefits.

Your pets get:

• The environment they know best with a pet sitter in your home.
• A environment that is close to their own home (if your pet is allowed free run and to do the things that they are allowed in their own home ie) sleep on beds and couches etc, at the pet sitters house.
• Their same diet and routine.
• Less stressful as kennels tend to be very loud. Some pets are never kenneled or have fear of kennels.
• Personal attention while you're away. 24 hour love and care at TLC.

You get:

• The peace of mind that comes from knowing that your pet is being cared for by a professional yet still in a environment they are used to whether that is their own home or the home of your pet sitter. Either way they are in a home environment and not a boarding facility.
• Hiring a professional pet sitter who is trained and experienced in the health and care of all pets allows clients to have a worry free vacation. Anyone is able to call themselves a pet sitter but make sure that yours is educated, experienced and can prove all of what is claimed.

Where do I find a pet sitter?

Ask friends, neighbors, or your veterinarian as a good pet sitter will have many people referring their services as well as more than one Veterinarian and professional. They will have more than one Vet Clinic that refer and recommend their service. Check the bulletin board at your local pet store, look on the internet under pet sitter organizations. A pet sitter organization will state that your pet sitter is licensed and insured if they are. Pet sitters can be apart of a pet sitters organization but if it does not state "insured and bonded" don't take their word for it as the organization will post the company as such only when proof is provided to them.

**Pet care professionals will or should attend seminars on Animal Health or Animal Care and will be able to provide to you accreditation documents to prove that they have attended these seminars.**

What should I look for?

It's important to learn all you can about prospective pet sitters' qualifications and services. Before selecting a pet sitter, interview the candidates over the phone best yet in person. A professional will get back to you sooner rather than later and will be very flexible on meetings. You should never feel rushed when visiting your potential pet sitter whether you spend 5 minutes or an hour the pet sitter will accommodate you and your pets.

• Can the pet sitter provide written proof that she/he has insurance in the event of emergencies etc?
• Is their business licensed with the city in which they reside?
• There are many businesses that have more than one "pet sitter" but make sure that the primary care giver is the one that is educated, experienced and trained in the proper care for your pets as it is not going to do your pet any good if the primary person is not qualified or has to rely on others in the event your pet falls ill. Your pets primary caregiver should always be the person with the most animal experience and pet related education.
• What training has the pet sitter received to handle emergencies and is their certificates to prove this?
• Will your pet sitter keep a pet profile on your pet while you are away? Will the pet sitter record information about your pet, such as his likes, dislikes, fears, any problems (not getting along with other pets etc), fun things they did, send you updates, pictures, phone you?
• What would happen in the even that the pet sitter falls ill. Is there someone that is able to take over until the sitter is well again?
  
• Does the pet sitter have proper contracts/forms in place?
• Will the pet sitter provide you with the phone numbers of other clients who have agreed to serve as references? You should call at least one or two of the numbers they give you.
• Does the pet sitter have professional as well as Veterinarian references to provide to you. A well known and respected pet sitter will have more than one of each as many will be related to their references and well we all know how that works!!

Even if you like what you hear from the pet sitter and from their references, it's important that you meet the prospective pet sitter. You should feel 100% comfortable with the pet sitter, their abilities and most importantly your pet must love them!They should provide a list of policies and contract to you. They should go over your pets daily routine and customize their care to your pets needs. Watch how the pet sitter interacts with your pet. Does your pet seem comfortable with them? If your pet has special requirements such as daily medications, separation anxiety is your pet sitter able to care for them the way they require. Many pets that have separation anxiety respond very well to the right pet sitter and it is very important that you find the right one from the start as they will often remember their bad experience and having to switch is often stressful. Is your pet sitter trained and insured for medication administration?

How can I help the pet sitter and my pet?

Of course, even the most trustworthy, experienced pet sitter will have trouble if you haven't also kept your end of the bargain. Here are your responsibilities:

• Make reservations with your pet sitter early, especially during holidays. A well known and respected sitter will book far in advance.
• Ensure your pet is well socialized and allows strangers to handle him. If your pet has issues be sure to inform the pet sitter beforehand so they will be prepared.
• Have current identification tags to your pet's collar.
• Maintain current vaccinations for your pet.
• Make clear your instructions detailing specific pet-care responsibilities and emergency contact information, including how to reach you and your veterinarian. Make sure your veterinarian knows that your pets are being cared for by the pet sitter and that the pet sitter is authorized to bring your pets in to them in case of an emergency.
• Buy extra pet supplies in case you're away longer than planned, if this is not provided by your sitter.
  
• Finally, have a safe and fun trip. And remember to bring your pet sitter's phone number in case your plans change or you just want to find out how your best friends are doing.
  

We look forward to meeting you and your pets!!

Tamara TLC Pet Sitting Edmonton

Chewing objects is a natural dog behavior. Teething, anxiety, boredom, and insufficient exercise may increase your dog's need to chew. Follow these steps to teach your dog to chew only on safe chew toys.

1. Purchase a few safe chew objects, such as Nylabones, Kong toys, or sterilized bones. Kong toys and sterilized bones can be stuffed with peanut butter or treats to give your dog a challenge. Avoid:
2. • All meat and fish bones. They can cause choking and intestinal damage.
3. • Toys that contain small hard parts, such as squeakers. Hard pieces are dangerous if swallowed.
4. • Old clothing or household items. Your dog can't distinguish new shoes from old ones you've allowed him to chew on.
5. • Rawhide bones, especially if your dog gobbles them down. Choking can occur, or digestive problems may result if large pieces are swallowed. To be on the safe side, always supervise your dog when you give her a rawhide bone, and take it away before you leave
6. Praise your dog for chewing on an appropriate object so she/he will learn the correct behavior.
7. When you see your dog pick up or chew an inappropriate object, redirect his/her attention and offer him an "authorized" chew object. Praise him for taking the authorized object. Do not try to correct by punishing your dog for inappropriate chewing.
8. Teach your dog the "leave it" command. Consult a trainer for instructions.
9. Confine your dog to a chew-proof area whenever you can't supervise him/her. Leave him/her one toy to chew on. A dog crate is the safest place for your dog when you can't be present to supervise, as long as he/she is not confined to the crate for excessively long periods. If you opt to confine him/her to a small room, you may need to spray the furniture and cabinets with Bitter Apple. Make sure that electrical cords are unplugged or inaccessible.
10. Spend more time with your dog. Enroll in a training class to build his confidence. Give him more exercise, especially before leaving him/her alone. If your dog is tired, he/she may sleep instead of chewing.
11. Try one of the new sustained-release food devices, such as the Buster Cube or the Activity Ball. These are hard plastic toys that you fill with kibble (a portion of your dog's daily ration). The kibble is gradually released as your dog manipulates the toy. This is basically the same concept as the food-laced Kong toy or sterilized bone, only more challenging for the dog. The new Goodie Grippers are also based on this principle.
12. Give your dog unsupervised freedom gradually. Check on him/her after 5 or 10 minutes initially. Slowly increase the amount of time he/she is left alone. If she resumes her destructive chewing, back up. Most puppies aren't trustworthy for the first year, so don't be discouraged.
13. If you are unable to control your dog's inappropriate chewing by these methods, contact a behaviorist or your veterinarian for advice.